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AIDS put an abrupt end to all of that as it devastated the queer community who had to contend with discrimination and death. The passing, in 1986, of designer Perry Ellis, then the president of the CFDA, activated the fashion industry to publicly acknowledge the crisis that was affecting so many within it, and come together in charitable support. In 1990 the first Seventh of Sale was held, six years after Lady Bunny organized the first Wigstock and between Susanne Bartsch’s 1989 and 1991 Love Balls, which rallied support and funds for those with the disease. “The queer community had always loved fashion—created it, promoted it, worn it—but in the ’90s the fashion industry finally began to reciprocate that love,” states Bowles. “Rejecting the fear and suppression that the AIDS pandemic had caused opened up a whole new world of visibility and representation.”

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